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| preparation |
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| Garden Beds |
| Tomatoes love plenty of
sun and warmth, so in Australia, an area in front of a north facing
wall, would be perfect. You should however plant tomatoes in a different
spot every couple of years. This prevents your soil gradually becoming
imbalanced - both nutritionally and disease wise. |
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| Beds should be raised,
particularly with clay soils. This stops waterlogging after heavy
rain, and allows plenty of oxygen to get to the roots. |
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| If the area
is vacant in winter, add a compost to the top of the soil. If time
permits, fork it in a couple of weeks later. Compost containing leaves,
grass or straw, ensures carbon rich matter. Organic matter such as
manure or blood and bone is also beneficial. |
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| Prior to planting, dig
in a general purpose fertiliser containing nitrogen, phosphorus and
potassium. A lot of people just use Dynamic Lifter (pellatised chicken
manure) which is great for the initial leaf growth, but later, the
high level of nitrogen may prevent the uptake of nutrients required
for fruiting. I would only use it at this initial stage, and not too
strongly, or you can burn a young seedlings roots. |
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| Adding a handful of ground
limestone per square metre, will help the plant with calcium uptake.
I wouldn't lime every year and I try and do it a month or two before
adding compost or fertilisers, as it like to be done alone. |
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| Now is the time to search
for the stakes (re wooden stakes: buy new ones if you had disease
last year, as they can harbour this disease). Other items like plant
ties will be needed soon, so think about how you are going to support
your crop. |
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| Pots |
| Well after
last years crop, I tipped the potting mix onto a low spot in the garden.
With a couple of pots, I did knock some of the potting mix out of
the roots, and mixed it up 50/50 with some new stuff. Then I reused
it, planting some pots of herbs. They are surviving well. I rinsed
the spare pots, and put them away ready for next year. |
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| Choose pots with good
drainage holes. They should have them on the side, and on the bottom.
Many terracotta pots have only one hole, flush to the ground. These
pots should be at least raised slightly, raising the hole off the
ground. The size of pot depends on the variety. Tall growers need
large tubs. Smaller sized tomatoes eg Floriana's San
Marzano can go in much smaller pots ( as small as 25cm diameter.
If you go too small, the plant will forever dry out. |
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| Deep saucers are extremely
handy, particularly if you go away for a few days. They also save
water. The trick is to let the plant use all the water, rather than
continually topping them up, which can give the plants 'wet feet'
(lack of oxygen to roots, often resulting in poor growth). |
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| Garden soil in pots can
also cause 'wet feet'. The fine granules in garden soil are so small,
that they compact down in the pot causing poor drainage. A good potting
mix has both large and small chunks of pine-bark, allowing more air
around the roots. Like most things in life, you pay for what you get
- expect poor performance from a $3.00 potting mix and $10.00 plus
for a top of the line with all the extras. No other fertilisers or
manures should need to be added initially. |
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| Staking is
something to think about now. The more support, the better. Some of
the bush types, like Tumbler or San Marzano, can simply be left to
cascade over the pot. Taller growers will appreciate wire frames,
tee-pee like sticks, stakes, or by growing the pot near a fence or
verandah pole. |
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